Tumbling Waters – Amicalola Falls

I felt it; if only briefly. If you are an outdoor person, you will immediately know what I’m talking about. That first time you walk outside in late summer and you feel a crispness to the air. It’s that Indian-Summer feeling where it is still warm but not sticky. The wind feels different; the air not so heavy. I almost turned around and went to the closet to find my backpack. Later that day, Melissa said she wanted to go have a picnic at our favorite spot; Amicalola Falls State Park. We were married here and had many a picnic at the Top-of-the-Falls when we were courting. We have backpacked from the other side of Springer Mountain on the AT into Amicalola Falls State Park. So, this is one special place to us. We love it. The park has been regularly named as one of the best state parks in the country by a host of different organizations, including National Geographic. It is notable for many reasons, the most important being that it is essentially the Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail, and it has the highest waterfall east of the Rocky Mountains; 729 feet (which is four times the height of Niagra)!

This month we wanted to feature this stunning park as a prelude to a larger story about the Appalachian Trail. The park lies in the northwest corner of Dawson County, Georgia, due west of Dahlonega and south east of Ellijay, Georgia. The park features a grand lodge at the top of the falls with a stunning view of north Georgia. There are four trail systems within the park, including the AT Approach trail which leads you to the summit of Springer Mountain.

The first written account of the falls was by a man named William Williamson (who apparently did not have very creative parents). Williamson was scouting the area just prior to the 1832 Land Lottery, when he wrote, “In the course of my route in the Mountains I discovered a Water Fall perhaps the greatest in the World the most majestic Scene that I have ever witnessed or heard of the Creek passes over the mountain & the fall I think can’t be less than Six hundred Yards. The Mountain is at least three fourths of a mile high. I made great exertions to get on the summit, but the ascent was so great that I was completely exhausted by the time I reached half way. My position was such that I had a perfect view of the entire Fall. The Stream is Called Um-ma-eolola from the Fall (Tumbling Waters).”

The first significant development in the area was in 1852 by the Crane family, who built a grist mill just below the falls to serve the mountain communities. Eight years later, Methodists built a campground to hold revivals in the area. The Civil War was particularly hard on north Georgia, because the largely pro-union Scotch-Irish were at odds with their fellow Georgians who lived south of the mountains. Many served in the Union Army, and there is even a historical marker on the subject on the grounds of the local courthouse. Later in the war, major battles took place just to the west at places like Rocky Face Ridge, Resaca, Kennesaw Mountain and Allatoona Pass.

The grist mill operated into the 20th century, and the Crane family even ran a general store in the area through the depression. On the eve of World War II, they sold their portion of property to the state for the development of the park. In 1958, the Appalachian Trail Society decided to move the southern terminus of the trail to Springer Mountain from Mount Oglethorpe due to developmental pressure. Amicalola Falls State park could then serve as the southern terminus with adequate parking, check in, emergency services and more.

As mentioned, Amicalola Falls is the launching point for many a hiker bound for a life-altering journey on the AT. If you’re a hiker, you understand how the outdoors has a spiritual healing element. John Muir said, “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” Amicalola Falls State Park is a sort-of Mecca for those seeking this solitude and intimacy with the natural world. The park welcomes more that 6 million visitors a year, and is host to scores of reunions, school trips, and weddings (including mine and Melissa’s).

It has also been featured in popular literature and film. The funniest book ever written (according to me anyway), is titled A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson.  It’s the story of two out of shape, slightly over middle-aged guys who rekindle a strained friendship by going out and attempting to hike this enormous challenge. Spoiler alert – they don’t finish the trail and nearly kill each other and themselves in the process. Robert Redford thought the book was so funny that he bought the rights to the film and starred in his own movie in 2015 alongside Nick Nolte. I would also argue that this was Nick’s best role ever; an absolute laugh riot. Some of the movie was filmed in the park, and there is one scene where they are setting off on the approach trail right behind the visitor center.

Amicalola Falls has several other facilities in addition to the spectacular lodge. For those backpackers who want to have a little more comfort, there is an inn called the Len Foote Hike Inn, which is only accessible by a five-mile hike. The facility is picturesque with family style meals and comfortable bunks. And the park is home to the black bear conservation program; an enormously successful campaign that has brought the bear back to a very healthy population, (just ask our dog Idgy – she loses her mind when one walks through the yard). There are even birds-of-prey rehabilitated here and a fantastic ranger education program.

Come see this wonderful park the next time you have the opportunity. And if you come after the first of October, you can come to the Olde Towne Cutlery brick-and-mortar store at Settendown Village! We can’t wait to see you!